The sun is shining but with only 4°C it’s cold when I leave my car at a parkinglot on the edge of the village Epen in the very south of the Netherlands, the hills of South Limburg. Going around the corner this days’ hike starts with a hollow road which ends in front of a vakwerkhuis. A few minutes later I’m walkin through fields with a stunning view in front of me. Two other hikers make their way across the fields in the distance and I linger a bit to let them disappear. I like to walk alone.
Hollow Road
After a short walk on a roadside. Cross a bridge, turn left and find myself on a narrow and muddy path that leads me through fields northwards along the river Geul.
The Geul is the best known river in South Limburg. It has its source in Germany, is 56km long and flows also through a part of Belgium. Due to the large difference in altitude, 242 meter at beginning and end, it is the quickest flowing river in the Netherlands.
It’s only been a few months since this now calmy flowing river flooded large parts of the region I’m walking in due to heavy rainfall, destroying everything on its path. Today nothing reminds of those horrible days and I am treated on spectacular views on a gorgeous sunny day.
After an hour I arrive at Mechelen and decide to treat myself on coffee and a piece of ‘kersenvlaai’, cherry pie in Limburg, on a sunny terrace. Temperature is slowly rising!
Leaving Mechelen the path leads me through a series of meadows and fields again. I hear churchbells in the distance and come across a family of curious cows who I quietly pass.
The Elzetter Forest appears in the distance and I am reminded to keep my focus on my navigation when I miss the narrow path on the right at a crossroad and take the wide road on the left. I have to turn back.
The walk through the forest is wonderful. The tall trees on this hillside forest are starting to change color, the leaf covered path up and down is sometimes challenging and the silence is overwhelming. This is what I came here for.
After leaving the forest a steep, narrow and hollowed out path leads me back down to the fields along the Geul, this time further south and southwards close to the Belgium border. The fields are muddy and I sink almost ankle deep into it, but I manage to keep my feet dry.
Where a small bridge crosses the river the path leads back northwards in the direction of Epen. In my case this included a little detour due to me being distracted.
Finally on the right track again I come across the Volmolen, a watermill, built in the 17th century and rebuild in 1880 after being destroyed by fire.
A walk across fields and meadows leads me back to Epen where the hollow path that was the beginning of this beautiful hike brings me back to my car.
This is a long post about the first hike in September 2020, but to me this tough hike represents the turning point in a very difficult period in my life, a point where I finally started to get out of my head. So it deserves some attention.
Puy de Peyre Arse
When my brother, SIL and I went on (a corona proof) vacation to France in september 2020 I hadn’t read a book that year at all. Being an avid reader that means something is not okay and one of my goals in France beside getting my head clear was to start reading again. The first book on my list was ‘Wild’ by Cheryl Strayed. Wild is the story of a young woman who goes on a 1700 km solo hike on the Pacific Crest Trail in the USA when she is at the lowest point of her life. It’s a hellish journey, emotional and physical, with a big and heavy backpack (aptly called Monster), but in the end it has made her stronger than she ever was before. Although I hadn’t finished the book at that time it already helped me during the first hike: the Tour de Peyre Arse. A medium difficult hike, as the description said, but I’m not sure I want to know what a difficult hike is after this day ….
A Puy is a mountain of vulcanic origin and the Puy de Peyre Arse in the Auvergne is one of the highest mountains of the Monts du Cantal, with the summit at 1806 mtr.
The starting point of the 15 km trail is at the Col de Serre at an altitude of 1364 mtr. The trail starts at the Nature Station with an easy 3 km path, gradually climbing to the Col d’Eylac at 1460 mtr, parallel to the main road. It was a nice day, sun was shining, sky was blue and the surroundings amazing, simply a great day for a hike…..
Follow trail 41
And then there was a gate…… And everything changed once we got through it…..
The path on the other side of the gate was completely different. It was small and steadily going uphill along the slopes of the Puy Mary. The mountain side was on the right and to the left we had an amazing view on the Vallee de l’Impradine.
It was also a slippery, muddy path, wet from being in the shadow at the northeast side of the mountain and I remember thinking I was glad we were going up since going down seemed tricky. Little did I know what we were up to later that day.
La Vallée de l’Impradine
Gradually the path got wider and lead us to the ‘Brèche de Roland’ , a break between the Puy Mary (1783mtr) and the Puy de Peyre Arse (1806 mtr) at approximately 1600 mtr.
Walking over the ridge between the two mountains, with the spectacular views at the Vallee de la Jordanne on the right and the Vallee de l’Impradine on left side of it was awesome and gave an overwhelming feeling. It felt like standing on top of the world.
Vallée de la Jordanne
Vallée de l’Impradine
From the Brèche de Roland the Puy de Peyre Arse was right in front of us. The path towards the summit was steep, rocky, got smaller when we climbed higher and disappeared altogether when a big rock made it impossible to go further. The only way was to go back and take an almost invisible foot width ‘path’ on the west side of the mountain. It took us 1 hour to cover the 1,5 km ‘path’ from the Brèche de Roland to reach a wide spot about 10 meters under the summit.
Resting place at the Puy de Peyre Arse
We used that place to take a break, eat a bit and enjoy the spectacular sight. Meanwhile we looked for the path at the other side of the mountain that would lead us downward to the Col de Cabre, and found out there was no path! At least not the first meters. The only way to go downhill was to let yourself slide down, holding a trekkingpole in one hand and holding on to whatever there was to hold on to with the other hand.
After 20 meters a small, rocky path became visible, which lead us downhill to the Col de Cabre (1528 mtr) and then to the left through the Vallee de la Santoire, which finally seemed a flat part, seen from above.
Vallée de la Santoire
The path down reminded me of the first part of the path of the Samaria Gorge on Crete, a steep downhill path which takes 2,5 hours to cover. Big difference with the current path: on Crete there was a fence to hold on to and it was at the beginning. Here in the Cantal mountains there was no fence and this part of the trail came at the end. It was a constant struggle to stay upright, to find the best part to put your feet and avoid slipping away.
Seen from above I thought it would get easier once we had arrived at the Col de Cabre and go left through the valley, but boy was I wrong! It only got harder. If you think going uphill is hard, try going downhill in 45° angle when you’re tired and your legs burn and scream for a rest and it seems like to go on forever ….
Two hours (and 4 km) after we left the summit of the Puy de Peyre Arse we arrived at a very small village, La Gravière. From there it was only 4 km back to the car, but it was late afternoon and we were tired. We also knew that it would take at least 1 1/2 hour to walk the 4 km to the car. We decided to try to get a taxi back to the Col de Serre. Luckily a few locals (somehow I think it was the mayor) were sitting chatting on a bench in the town square. You should have seen their faces when I asked (hurray for french classes in highschool) where we could call for a taxi. A taxi??!! Non non, not available in this part of the region, and letting one come from a larger place would be way too expensive. But, these friendly people came with another solution: one of the inhabitants had a squad and could bring one of us to the car on the Col de Serre who could then return to pick up the others. Guess who was the lucky one to drive with the man? Yup, since I was the only one who speaks french, I would go with him. Luckily the squad was not the four wheel thing where you sit behind the driver, but a mini-pickup. That being said, the whole route to the Col de Serre was uphill and the small vehicle was groaning and puffing and it even smelled like something was burning. But…. we got safely to our car and I returned to the village to pick up the others.
In hindsight the trail was too much for us and we should have chosen a less difficult one. But although we may not have finished the whole trail (better safe than sorry) we did what we did. It doesn’t come close to what Cheryl Strayed achieved with her journey on the PCT, but it was an amazing adventure. And more important, this hike helped me the way her journey helped her: this difficult trail let me focus so intense on what I was doing that I forgot the worries and troubles. I slowly started to find myself back again and this hike was the beginning ……
Before January is coming to an end I’ll take some time to look back on 2020. That year was probably the darkest year of my life, and NOT because of Covid. As I wrote in a previous blog our family was confronted with severe mental health issues of our son in 2020 and we are still (trying to) deal with it. Trying, because after all these months I still struggle with it enormously.
I also wrote that I felt we were slowly climbing out to the light. Well I was wrong, we hadn’t hit rockbottom at all! It got worse and made us feel pretty desperate.
I’m grateful for all the help he gets from care givers these past months, but as a parent we feel a bit left out in the proces. I’ve always tried to lend an ear to whatever problem my children had and this situation was no exception. But to listen to the same story, worries and troubles over and over again is a whole new thing. How to handle suspicion and anger, doubts about therapy and his own mental abilities? What to say when the other one doesn’t want to live anymore? And how to behave when there is someone in your house who hardly speaks and shows nothing but anger?
Photo: Google
The whole situation took its toll on me and I knew I needed to do something about it to prevent me falling apart. And although it wasn’t easy I decided to literally leave everyone behind and go to France in September for a corona-proof hiking vacation with my brother and SIL.
I have a professional person with whom I talk once or twice a month about all the troubles and he already told me I needed to distance from the situation by claiming more time for myself but that is easier said than done when you all live in the same house. Going to France however would literally mean creating distance between me and the ‘problem’ and I knew hiking could give me more peace of mind.
It turned out to be THE BEST decision of 2020. I will tell about the hikes in other blogs but they did what I hoped they would, I got out of my head and found peace of mind again, and it rekindled my passion for walking.
Puyde Peyre Arse(Auvergne)
In hindsight the whole situation at home has taught me a lot about (dealing with) mental illlness and about myself. We’re not even close to an end to this situation and it’s not easy to realise that he can’t always control the anger and suspicion and that it simply happens to him but by distancing myself mentally I can handle it better. That doesn’t mean distancing from the person but from the situation and there are a few things that help me.
I use mindfulness to delve into memories that give me a good feeling, reliving them almost from hour to hour and thus taking my mind away from the worries. The roadtrip to Scotland in 2016 with friends I met on Twitter has been an anchor that helped me through the darkest moments. Long walks, usually on Sundays, help me boost my energy and clear my mind, while enjoying nature’s beauty. I also read a lot, listen to music from my youth (going down memory lane) and try to make time for creative hobby’s.
Furthermore I learned how important it is to talk about it with other people . I’m grateful to have family, friends and people at work who I can trust outside of my family at home. Especially the chats with far away but very close friends help me on a daily basis. Sharing my troubles with them doesn’t solve the problem, but helps to make the burden less heavy.
Last Sunday I went for a walk. Not the first time this year and it reminds me that I need to post some photos and info from my other walks this year (I wanted to write a blog after each walk but so far that didn’t work out).
The walk felt a bit strange. I usually go out on my own for a walk on Sunday and last Sunday was no exception to it. What made it different was the fact that I was wondering if I will be allowed to go out for a Sundaywalk the following week also.
In this troubled and worrying time, with the Corona virus spreading globally around, I already try to avoid most and close contact with other people outside of my family, but I think there are way more measures necessary to keep the threat contained. The time for appeal to common sense is over, we need clear decisions and vigor. With my husband (severe COPD) and my mother (heartcondition) in the high risk group I get very angry when people keep saying it’s just like the flu and keep doing what they always do.
My walk last Sunday was a nice one, through The Malpie, a region with wet heather and fens. Let’s hope I can soon walk there again with a less heavy mind and soul.
At the moment we’re still allowed to go out and I will be walking tomorrow. Walk while I have the freedom to do it.
Yesterday’s walk with a group of 10 Dutch Peakers brought me to a small town in the province Zuid Holland, where the Peaker living there took us for a walk to show us her ‘backyard’. Again we discovered a beautiful part of our small country, another part of the Netherlands we would probably never have known of, if it weren’t for these walks.
Besides many familiar faces we also welcomed new members on this walk and, as happens every time, these new Peakers easily blended in in a group of Peakers who already know eachother for a longer time. We all come from different backgrounds and are of different age, but with (at least) one thing in common, we are all members of My Peak Challenge. Somehow this simple fact creates a bond even before meeting in real life.
One of the best things of these walks together, besides nature’s beauty, is that they offer an opportunity for conversation. Whether in the company of one other walker or a whole group, there is always something to talk about, chitchat or serious conversation. Especially serious topics are easier to talk about walking alongside someone than sitting opposite. It’s less confronting, there is more space around and there is room for emotions and for silence.
Talking while walking often helps to put things in perspective. Recognising your own difficulties in the story of a companion makes it less heavy. Sharing worries or issues doesn’t solve them, but somehow it makes them easier to bear. And the joy to be in nature and the laughter about the funny things in life are simply uplifting.
Walks like this spread so much positive energy, it has to be felt outside the group too. I always go home filled with energy, a happy heart, peaceful mind and feeling grateful for the friends and friendship I found through them.
I live in a noisy household, and by that I mean that there is almost always someone or something that makes noise. Whether it’s people, music or television, it’s hardly ever silent when I’m at home. Somehow I’m the only one in this family who can thoroughly enjoy to be at home without having music or television on and since my time alone at home is very scarce it feels like a constant battle to claim those silent moments. And I do love silence so much! And although mindfullness taught me to shut myself off from most noises somehow, it doesn’t work in stressful times.
My first daily walks lead me through the streets of my hometown. Very nice, but mainly paved sidewalks. There is also a road that circles the village, approximately 8km long with a path for cyclists alongside, that I soon used to keep track of progress in distance and time. But there’s always traffic, not constant but it’s there, and so, though the countryside on the other side of the road is beautiful, there is always noise.
Luckily my hometown lies between the Strabrechtse Heide and de Grote Peel, two large nature reserves in Noord-Brabant. Woods, moor and heather are within walkingdistance from our frontdoor and so walking longer distances became not only a way to stay in shape, they became an escape from noise. And when noise was reduced to nature’s own sounds I was able to thoroughly enjoy my surroundings. It didn’t even matter how the weather was. Just being outside, looking around in a mindfull way, discovering hidden paths, beautiful views and extraordinary places was, and still is, enough to relax and collect energy.
There is nothing that brings more peace and gives more energy than a walk in the beauty nature offers.
Take a walk! 